The Diamond Book

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2017-12017-11-17CIBJO/Diamond CommissionThe Diamond BookCIBJO standardE

CIBJO 2017. All rights reserved.DIAMOND COMMISSION 2017-1Table of ContentsForeword . ivIntroduction . vi1. Scope .12. Normative references .13. Classification of materials .23.1. Natural materials . 23.1.1.Diamond . 23.1.2.Treated diamond. 23.2. Artificial products . 23.2.1.Synthetic diamonds. 23.2.2.Imitations . 24. Normative clauses .24.1. General clauses . 24.1.1.Description and display . 24.1.1.1.Disclosure . 24.1.1.1.1.4.1.1.1.2.Verbal disclosure 3Written disclosure 34.1.1.2.Terms designed to disguise . 34.1.1.3.Display . 34.1.1.4.Cultured. 34.1.1.5.The name of cuts . 34.1.2.Weight (mass) . 34.1.2.1.Rounding . 34.1.2.2.Total weight . 44.1.2.3.Total weight (multiple species) . 44.1.2.4.Fractions . 44.1.2.5.Weights of less than 1ct. . 44.1.2.6.The terms grain or grainer . 44.1.3.Measurements . 44.1.3.1.Unit of measurement . 44.1.3.2.Round stones . 44.1.3.3.Fancy shapes . 44.1.4.Grading . 54.2. Natural material and artificial product clauses. 54.2.1.Diamonds . 54.2.2.Treated diamond. 54.2.2.1.Disclosure . 54.2.2.2.Terms designed to disguise . 54.2.2.3.Name of firms. 64.2.2.4.Care requirements . 64.3. Artificial product clauses . 64.3.1.Synthetic diamonds. 64.3.1.1.Description . 64.3.1.2.Term designed to disguise . 64.3.1.3.Name of firms. 64.3.1.4.Irradiated synthetic diamond. 74.3.2.Imitation or simulant of diamonds . 74.3.2.1.Description and display . 74.3.2.2.Names of firms . 7ii

CIBJO 2017. All rights reserved.5.6.7.DIAMOND COMMISSION 2017-14.3.3.Composite stones. 7Terms and definitions .8Annex A — Diamond treatments (informative) . 16Annex B — Contents of diamond grading reports (informative) (also see PAS 1048) . 167.1.Diamond grading reports generally contain the following . 167.2.Cut — Parts and facet arrangement of a round brilliant cut (informative) . 177.3.Colour - Corresponding terms for colour grades (informative) . 187.4. Clarity — Corresponding terms for clarity grades (informative) . 19Index . 20iii

CIBJO 2017. All rights reserved.DIAMOND COMMISSION 2017-1ForewordCIBJO is the French acronym for the Confédération Internationale de la Bijouterie,Joaillerie, Orfèvrerie, des Diamants, Perles et Pierres, which translates as theInternational Confederation of Jewellery, Silverware, Diamonds, Pearls and Stones(normally shortened to the International Jewellery Confederation). Founded in 1926 asBIBOAH, a European organisation whose mission was to represent and advance theinterests of the jewellery trade in Europe, it was reorganised in 1961 and renamedCIBJO, in 2009 it was once again reorganised and officially named “CIBJO, The WorldJewellery Confederation”. Today CIBJO, which is domiciled in Switzerland, is a nonprofit confederation of national and international trade associations includingcommercial organisations involved in the jewellery supply chain. It now has membersfrom countries representing all five continents of the world. CIBJO printed its firstdeliberations on terminology and trade practices in 1968.It is the task of CIBJO to record the accepted trade practices and nomenclature for theindustry throughout the world. The records of the trade practices complement existingfair trade legislation of a nation or in the absence of relevant national laws they can beconsidered as trading standards. In countries where laws or norms exist, which conflictwith the laws, norms or trade practices in other countries, CIBJO will support thenational trade organisations to prevent trade barriers developing. The purpose ofCIBJO is to encourage harmonisation, promote international co-operation within thejewellery industry and consider issues which are of concern to the trade worldwide andto communicate proactively with members. Foremost amongst these the aim is toprotect consumer confidence in the industry. CIBJO pursues all of these objectivesthrough informed deliberation and by reaching decisions in accordance with itsStatutes. CIBJO relies upon the initiative of its members to support and implement itsstandards, and to protect the trust of the public in the industry.Any trade name used in this document is information given for the convenience ofusers and does not constitute an endorsement.The work of CIBJO is accomplished through Committees, Commissions and Sectors.Committees and Commissions consider standards for use in the jewellery supplychain. Sectors represent levels of trade in the jewellery industry. Sectors andcommissions advise the Executive Committee on current trade practices and issuesthat affect the jewellery industry.Three independent sectors exist within the confederation:Sector A - The Products SectorSector B - The Supply chain SectorSector C - The Service SectorThe Executive Committee may appoint Commissions that consider detailed issues. Atpresent these are:Coloured StoneCoralDiamondiv

CIBJO 2017. All rights reserved.DIAMOND COMMISSION 2017-1EthicsGemmologicalMarketing & EducationPearlPrecious MetalsWorld Jewellers VigilanceThe Commissions for Diamonds, Gemstones, Pearls and Precious Metals havecollated the guidelines, which present the accepted trade practices for applyingdescriptions to these materials. It is in the best interest of all those concerned to beaware of them.The Sectors and Commissions will propose changes in the standards, also known asthe Blue Books, to the Executive Committee. After review the Executive Committee willsubmit the accepted proposals for adoption to the Board of Directors and if approvedthey will notify the assembly of delegates of the changes at the annual congress.Furthermore, it is our mutual responsibility to support these recommendations, whichconcern all professional people connected with diamonds, gemstones, pearls andprecious metals. CIBJO Standards are subject to government regulations in therespective jurisdictions of CIBJO members.The national umbrella organisation for each country represents, in principle, all thenational trade organisations involved in the sectors mentioned above. This democraticstructure, which has contributed to CIBJO’s world-wide recognition also includesinternational trade and commercial organisations, it provides an international forum forthe trade to collectively draw attention to issues and implement resulting decisions.CIBJO Secretariat:CIBJO, The World Jewellery ConfederationViale Berengario,1920149 Milano, ItalyTel: 39-02-4997-7098 / 7097 / 6187 Fax: 39 02- 4997-7059E-mail: [email protected] site: www.cibjo.orgv

CIBJO 2017. All rights reserved.DIAMOND COMMISSION 2017-1IntroductionThis CIBJO Diamond guide is designed to assist all those involved with diamonds andartificial products, by recording the accepted trade practices and nomenclature for theindustry throughout the world.The standard is non-judgmental and the definitions and clauses contained herein aredesigned to prevent unfair or deceptive trade practices, they are formatted and wordedto ensure that each diamond and artificial products bought or sold is done so withclarity and honesty. The stability of the market place depends upon the use of theproper nomenclature and the declaration of all known facts that ensure a fully informedpurchase or sale, throughout the distribution pipeline all the way to the final consumer.The following definitions apply in understanding how to implement CIBJO standard andnormative references (Blue Books, PAS). “shall” indicates a requirement;“should” indicates a recommendation;“may” is used to indicate that something is permitted;“can” is used to indicate that something is possible.The Scope (1) of the guide is set out, as are the Normative References (2). The Termsand Definitions (5) are expansive and cross-referenced throughout the Classification ofMaterials (3), Normative Clauses (4), Annexes - A Diamond treatments (6) and BContents of diamond grading reports (7). It is important that the reader refers to therelevant Terms and Definitions when consulting each Normative Clause.The CIBJO Diamond CommissionNovember 2017vi

CIBJO 2017. All rights reserved.DIAMOND COMMISSION 2017-1DIAMONDS and ARTIFICIAL PRODUCTS CHARTMaterials of natural origin and artificial products used in jewellery or objets d’art, with theexception of metalsARTIFICIAL PRODUCTS – Clause 4.3DIAMONDS – Clause 4.2.1Products that are partially or completely made by manA diamond is a natural inorganic substance that iscompletely formed by nature, without humanintervention, that may subsequently be cut,polished and treated.Diamonds are used in jewellery or objets d’art dueto a combination of properties that provide themwith beauty, rarity, and relative durabilityTREATED DIAMONDS –SYNTHETICDIAMONDS –Clause 4.3.1Artificial productshaving essentially thesame chemicalcomposition, physicalproperties andstructure, as that ofdiamondsClause 4.2.2IMITATIONS of DIAMONDS –Clause 4.3.2Artificial products that imitate theappearance of diamonds and syntheticdiamonds without having their chemicalcomposition and or their physical propertiesor their structure.Artificially crystallised productswith no known natural counterpart(clause 5.5)Artificial uncrystallised products(clause Error! Reference sourcenot found.)andArtificially produced compositestonesDiamonds that have been treated byvarious processes to change theirappearance and or durabilityvii

CIBJO 2017. All rights reserved.DIAMOND COMMISSION 2017-1DIAMONDS — TERMINOLOGY ANDCLASSIFICATION (nomenclature)1. ScopeThe terminology and classification of diamonds (5.24) and artificial products (5.3) areestablished with reference to commercial usage, in conformity with the classificationsand practices of the diamond and jewellery trade. It shall be used by all tradersparticipating as members of CIBJO member organisations within all member nations.NOTE — CIBJO recognises that its standards are subject to government regulations in the respectivejurisdiction of CIBJO members. In the event there are no government regulations in a member's country,the local industry rule will take precedence as long as it is stricter.2. Normative referencesThe following referenced documents are useful for the application of this document. Fordated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latestedition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.The Coral Book, CIBJO, International Confederation of Jewellery, Silverware,Diamonds, Pearls and Stones, the World Jewellery Confederation, VialeBerengario,19, 20149 Milano, Italy. [email protected] Gemmological Laboratory Book, CIBJO, International Confederation ofJewellery, Silverware, Diamonds, Pearls and Stones, the World JewelleryConfederation, Viale Berengario,19, 20149 Milano, Italy. [email protected] Gemstone Book, CIBJO, International Confederation of Jewellery, Silverware,Diamonds, Pearls and Stones, the World Jewellery Confederation, VialeBerengario,19, 20149 Milano, Italy. [email protected] Pearl Book, CIBJO (International Confederation of Jewellery, Silverware,Diamonds, Pearls and Stones, the World Jewellery Confederation, VialeBerengario,19, 20149 Milano, Italy. [email protected] Precious Metals Book, CIBJO, International Confederation of Jewellery,Silverware, Diamonds, Pearls and Stones, the World Jewellery Confederation, VialeBerengario,19, 20149 Milano, Italy. [email protected] 1048, Grading polished diamonds, Part 1: Terminology and classification — Part2: Test methods (2005), Beuth Verlag GmbH, Berlin.http://www.natdiamond.com/pas1048ISO 18323 :2015, Jewellery — Consumer confidence in the diamond industry.http://www.iso.org/iso/catalogue detail.htm?csnumber 62163.1

CIBJO 2017. All rights reserved.DIAMOND COMMISSION 2017-13. Classification of materialsThe jewellery industry recognises two categories of materials: natural materials, clause 3.1and artificial products, clause 3.2.3.1.Natural materials3.1.1. DiamondA diamond (5.24) is a mineral (5.55) which has been formed completely by nature withouthuman interference during its formation. A diamond may subsequently be modified bynormal lapidary practices.3.1.2. Treated diamondDiamonds which have been treated to change their colour and clarity. See clause 4.2.2.3.2.Artificial productsProducts that are partially or completely made by man.3.2.1. Synthetic diamondsArtificial products having essentially the same chemical composition, physical properties andstructure as a diamond.3.2.2.ImitationsArtificial products that imitate the appearance of diamonds or synthetic diamonds withouthaving their chemical composition, physical properties and or their structure.4. Normative clauses4.1.General clauses4.1.1. Description and displayAll materials listed in clause 3 shall be named, described and displayed in accordance withthe definitions, annexes and the terminology set out in all the clauses herein. This applies toall publications, advertisements (5.1), communications addressed to consumers and to thespecific information given to a purchaser, prior to or during a final sale, as well as to allcommercial documents (5.13) (e.g., offers, labels, memos, delivery notes and invoices) andto appraisals, identification reports, certificates, etc.4.1.1.1. DisclosureFull disclosure (5.26) by the vendor to the purchaser of all material information (5.54) shalltake place whether or not the information is specifically requested and regardless of theeffect on the value of the product being presented or sold.2

CIBJO 2017. All rights reserved.4.1.1.1.1.DIAMOND COMMISSION 2017-1Verbal disclosureFull verbal disclosure (5.26) shall take place using clear and understandable language priorto the completion of a sale.4.1.1.1.2.Written disclosureFull written disclosure (5.26) shall be conspicuously included on all commercial documents(5.13) in clear and plain language so as to be readily understandable to the purchaser. Thedisclosure shall immediately precede the description of the materials listed in clause 3 andshall be equally conspicuous to that description.4.1.1.2. Terms designed to disguiseIt is contrary to the purposes of this document to make any misleading or deceptivestatement, representation or illustration relating to origin, formation, production, condition orquality that does not conform in all respects with any and all the clauses contained herein.The terms “natural treated diamond” or “treated natural gemstone”, shall not be usedbecause they can be misleading.4.1.1.3. DisplayIn cases when diamonds are displayed, or jewellery is decorated, with treated diamonds,synthetic diamonds, imitations of diamonds and composite stones, an easily noticeableand legible label adjoining each item shall clearly indicate the precise nature of the objectsbeing shown in accordance with the clauses herein.4.1.1.4. CulturedThe term “cultured” (5.20) or cultivated shall only be used for cultured pearls and organicmaterials.4.1.1.5. The name of cutsThe name of diamond cuts/shapes shall onl

3.1.1. Diamond A diamond (5.24) is a mineral (5.55) which has been formed completely by nature without human interference during its formation. A diamond may subsequently be modified by normal lapidary practices. 3.1.2. Treated diamond Diamonds which have been treated to change their colour and clarity. See clause 4.2.2. 3.2.