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Ablingfashion illustrationPosing DynamicsAll three figures have the same low shoulder and high hip side. Thearms and legs change but not the core torso pose. This presentscontinuity in a design grouping on a page.Bend orCrunch Sideof PoseFThe stretchin the torsois on the leftside of thepose.Same coretorso posefor all three.LowShoulderSideLow shoulderside of thepose.ashion Sketchbook, 6th Edition demystifies the fashiondrawing process with simple, step-by-step directions.Now in full color and completely revised, with updatedinstructions and images throughout, this introductorytext explains how to draw women, men, and children,pose the figure, develop the fashion head andface, sketch accessories, add garment details, and prepareflats and specs. To accelerate comprehension and aid in thediversification of skills, Women’s Wear Daily photographs fromthe showroom and the runway accompany Abling’s detailed,easy-to-follow lessons.Extended orStrength Sideof PoseHighHipSideBend orcrunch side ofthis pose.Static or Nonactive PoseTorso Active "This left,walkingforeshortenedleg is thenon-supportleg of thispose, as it isnot touchingthe "floor."UpDownThe RunwayWalking PosePosingShortcutSame exacttorso poseflipped over"reads"differentlybut is stillsimilar andeasy to copy.Posed But Static Angles20Static posemeans noangles oraction in thetorso of thispose.Supportleg for thispose meansthe weightbearing sideof this pose.To review, thistype of pose canhave the extendedleg pushed back,behind the othersupporting leg.This bent backleg is drawnforeshortenedfrom the kneedown into its calf.Weightbearingsupport legshifts toother side inthis pose.FASHION SKETCHBOOKONE FASHION FIGURE PROPORTIONSWomen’s Outerwear FlatsContouredShading forDepth andEmphasisInside Backof CollarOptions in a Trench Coat FlatConsistentHeavierOutlineBrush PenOverdoneand ErraticMatch Up the DetailingLeft to Right; Coat OpenPlanning for theDouble-Breasted CoatCoat Closed, BeltedBuckle on Center FrontCollar RaisedAbove andOver EpauletWorking on Construction Details for ButtonsCenter FrontfeaturesLayers:Storm FlapSlightlySeparatefrom reAsymmetricalClosureZipperStitchQuiltingBelt LoopsBeltedCuff onTop/Overthe SleeveLineFurFlat ofBeltDrawnOff ofandNext toCoatFlatQuilt Detailed explanation of fashion figure analysis Clear instruction on drawing a variety of runway poses Photos of knit samples and garment details for visual referencePocket FlapLifting Off/Away fromCoat EdgeFaux Fur156 FASHION SKETCHBOOKSIX DRAWING FLATS AND SPECS157Feathers, Fringe, and Lace Soft pencil smudgesSharp pencil squiggle lines Soft pencil rowsFine pencil frayed edges Two separateflesh tones donebefore lace-likeprintOne flesh tone two ways: solid andbroken, done firstbefore print new to this editionGel pen whiterendered overflesh toneSharp pencil feathersDelicate pencil fringesPencilPrint Companion DVD with video of author demonstrating mixedmedia rendering techniques Additional focus on drawing men, children, luxury details,and flats and specs Updated appendix containing more than 400 garment andaccessory references for fashion nomenclatureTransparent fabrics can display their see-throughcharacteristics with clever coloring manipulation for what liesbeneath—other fabrics or flesh tones.1.Dolce &Gabbana2.3.4.Add shading emphasis to:1.2.3.4.NaeemKhanAlexanderMcQueenJean PaulGaultierBrood252 FASHION SKETCHBOOK Accentuate volume or function.Convey and demonstrate layers.Separate body planes in a pose.Indicate a fold or bend in a pose.Shading or highlighting on white fabric can involve more paletints than gray coloring.EIGHT HIGH-END RENDERING TECHNIQUES253Menswear TopsKnit TopsStretchy knits will reflect more of the body’scontours in your pose. Be especially precise aboutdrawing armholes. These seams can roll aroundthe shoulder cap or cling to the collarbone and tothe pectoral contours on the chest.AddingVolume tothe Bodyfor ClothingLayersor FabricThickness orWeightBroaderShoulders,Especiallyfor Men’sOuterwearA.sixth edition21B.fashion SKETCHBOOKsixth editionOuterwear flats introduce fabric weights, heavier materials, wider silhouettes, volume, and an emphasison closures—buttoning (or lack of it). These garments are worn over other clothes, which adds volumeto your shape, while sleeves often get wider with deeper armholes to accommodate the layering of garments plus a lining (if there is one). With closures and button placement you need to get very specific,as illustrated on this page.fashionSKETCHBOOKHigh hip sideof pose.In thispositionboth legssupportthe pose.HeadsFleshTonesFigure WorkMixed MediaFabricRenderingWoven TopsCrisp shirting fabrics rarely cling, but they do tendto fold and bend in sharp angles with the pose ofthe body. Keep these folds to a minimum so theydo not end up looking like so many wrinkles.JacketsAny jacket or blazer worn over woven shirts orknit tops means an excess of layers or fabrics tosketch. The easiest solution to this is to broadenthe shoulders to accommodate the extra width ofthe jacket and to plan for more fabric volume inyour sketch.A. Sweater Knit: RibbingB. Leather Jacket: SheenC. Denim Shirt: Twill WeaveISBN: 978-1-60901-228-1C.D.D.350 FASHION SKETCHBOOKmechanical 2.indd 1Position of the wrist critical to cuff detailingELEVEN DRAWING MEN351Ë xHSLGKJy012 81zv*: :!: :!DesignDetailBina Abling1/27/12 12:31 PM

FASHIONSKETCHBOOKsixth editionBINA ABLINGFairchild Books New York

FASHIONSKETCHBOOKsixth editionBINA ABLINGFairchild Books New York

ContentsExtended ContentsviiPrefacexiTools and Equipment HintsxiiiChapter 1Fashion Figure Proportions1Chapter 2Basic Figure Forms37Chapter 3Model Drawing61Chapter 4Fashion Heads81Development Editor: Beth CohenChapter 5Garments and Garment Details107Production Director: Ginger HillmanChapter 6Drawing Flats and Specs141Ancillaries Editor: Amy ButlerChapter 7Basic Rendering Techniques181Associate Director of Sales: Melanie SankelChapter 8High-End Rendering Techniques223Chapter 9Drawing Knits265Chapter 10Design Focus and Layout295Chapter 11Drawing Men329Videographer and DVD Developer: Katie FitzsimmonsChapter 12Drawing Children377Camera Assistants: Frank Marino and Jay CatlettChapter 13Accessories411Fashion Archive443All rights reserved. No part of this book covered by the copyright hereon may be reproduced or used in any form orCredits475by any means—graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping, or information storageIndex477Executive Director & General Manager: Michael SchluterExecutive Editor: Olga T. KontziasSenior Associate Acquiring Editor: Jaclyn BergeronAssistant Acquisitions Editor: Amanda BrecciaAssociate Art Director: Sarah SilbergSenior Production Editor: Elizabeth MarottaCopyeditor: Susan HobbsCover Design: Carly GrafsteinCover Art: illustrations by Bina Abling, photography by Giovanni Giannoni (Gianfranco Ferre Spring 2012 RTW)Text Design and Composition: Carly GrafsteinPhoto Research: Avital AronowitzCopyright 2012 Fairchild Books, a Division of Condé Nast Publications.and retrieval systems—without written permission of the publisher.Library of Congress Catalog Card Number:ISBN: 978-1-60901-228-1GST R 133004424Printed in CanadaTP 14v

ContentsExtended ContentsviiPrefacexiTools and Equipment HintsxiiiChapter 1Fashion Figure Proportions1Chapter 2Basic Figure Forms37Chapter 3Model Drawing61Chapter 4Fashion Heads81Development Editor: Beth CohenChapter 5Garments and Garment Details107Production Director: Ginger HillmanChapter 6Drawing Flats and Specs141Ancillaries Editor: Amy ButlerChapter 7Basic Rendering Techniques181Associate Director of Sales: Melanie SankelChapter 8High-End Rendering Techniques223Chapter 9Drawing Knits265Chapter 10Design Focus and Layout295Chapter 11Drawing Men329Videographer and DVD Developer: Katie FitzsimmonsChapter 12Drawing Children377Camera Assistants: Frank Marino and Jay CatlettChapter 13Accessories411Fashion Archive443All rights reserved. No part of this book covered by the copyright hereon may be reproduced or used in any form orCredits475by any means—graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping, or information storageIndex477Executive Director & General Manager: Michael SchluterExecutive Editor: Olga T. KontziasSenior Associate Acquiring Editor: Jaclyn BergeronAssistant Acquisitions Editor: Amanda BrecciaAssociate Art Director: Sarah SilbergSenior Production Editor: Elizabeth MarottaCopyeditor: Susan HobbsCover Design: Carly GrafsteinCover Art: illustrations by Bina Abling, photography by Giovanni Giannoni (Gianfranco Ferre Spring 2012 RTW)Text Design and Composition: Carly GrafsteinPhoto Research: Avital AronowitzCopyright 2012 Fairchild Books, a Division of Condé Nast Publications.and retrieval systems—without written permission of the publisher.Library of Congress Catalog Card Number:ISBN: 978-1-60901-228-1GST R 133004424Printed in CanadaTP 14v

Extended ContentsPreface xiAcknowledgmentsxiiTools and Equipment HintsxiiiCHAPTER 1Fashion Figure Proportions1Figure Elongation and StylizationGuidelinesHeads Tall, Figure GridFigure Map, Grid SystemConsistent ProportionsFashion Figure ObjectivesCroquis TemplatesDrawing the Figure FreehandSubjective HeightPosing DynamicsThe Balance LineCenter FrontBack ViewsThe Profile PoseThe Fuller FigureFashion Maternity FiguresEarly Illustrations for Womenswear246810121416182022242628303234CHAPTER 2Basic Figure FormsTorso DefinitionDrawing Legs: Form and ShapePosing LegsForeshortening: LegsDrawing FeetDrawing Arms: Form and ShapeForeshortening: ArmsDrawing HandsFigure Tips37384042444650525456CHAPTER 3Model DrawingModel Drawing PosesBalance LineAngles in a PoseTorso in a PoseGesture ComponentsInterpreting AnatomyFashion Runway and Showroom Poses6162636466687072CHAPTER 4Fashion Heads81Drawing Heads and Fashion FacesDrawing HeadsThe Diamond TechniqueDrawing a Full-Front HeadDrawing a Three-Quarter-Turned HeadDrawing a Profile HeadFashion Faces, Sketching FeaturesPosing the HeadSketching FeaturesStylizing the FaceRendering Hair ColorFleshtone and PencilPeriod LooksFashion Heads, Runway Looks8284868788899092949698100101102CHAPTER 5Garments and Garment Details 107Sketching Necklines and CollarsSketching SleevesSketching Blouses and DressesSketching SkirtsSketching Flares and GathersSketching Pleats108110112114116118vii

Extended ContentsPreface xiAcknowledgmentsxiiTools and Equipment HintsxiiiCHAPTER 1Fashion Figure Proportions1Figure Elongation and StylizationGuidelinesHeads Tall, Figure GridFigure Map, Grid SystemConsistent ProportionsFashion Figure ObjectivesCroquis TemplatesDrawing the Figure FreehandSubjective HeightPosing DynamicsThe Balance LineCenter FrontBack ViewsThe Profile PoseThe Fuller FigureFashion Maternity FiguresEarly Illustrations for Womenswear246810121416182022242628303234CHAPTER 2Basic Figure FormsTorso DefinitionDrawing Legs: Form and ShapePosing LegsForeshortening: LegsDrawing FeetDrawing Arms: Form and ShapeForeshortening: ArmsDrawing HandsFigure Tips37384042444650525456CHAPTER 3Model DrawingModel Drawing PosesBalance LineAngles in a PoseTorso in a PoseGesture ComponentsInterpreting AnatomyFashion Runway and Showroom Poses6162636466687072CHAPTER 4Fashion Heads81Drawing Heads and Fashion FacesDrawing HeadsThe Diamond TechniqueDrawing a Full-Front HeadDrawing a Three-Quarter-Turned HeadDrawing a Profile HeadFashion Faces, Sketching FeaturesPosing the HeadSketching FeaturesStylizing the FaceRendering Hair ColorFleshtone and PencilPeriod LooksFashion Heads, Runway Looks8284868788899092949698100101102CHAPTER 5Garments and Garment Details 107Sketching Necklines and CollarsSketching SleevesSketching Blouses and DressesSketching SkirtsSketching Flares and GathersSketching Pleats108110112114116118vii

Blouses, Skirts, and DressesSketching PantsDrawing PantsShorts and PantsSketching a BlazerDrawing JacketsDrawing CoatsJackets and Coats120122124126128130132134Guest ArtistsAram SungCarmen Chen WuCHAPTER 6Drawing Flats and SpecsFlat Figure TemplatesFigure Formulas for FlatsTops: Templates for Shirts, Blouses,and DressesBottoms: Templates for Shorts,Pants, and SkirtsStructure for FlatsSwimwear and Lingerie FlatsComprehensive FlatsWomen’s Outerwear FlatsPresentation or Portfolio FlatsCroquis Mixed with FlatsFlats and Figures MixedSpecsMeasuring and Detailing for SpecsAnalyzing a Garment for Flats or SpecsFlats and SpecsSpec SheetsCHAPTER 7Basic Rendering TechniquesRendering FleshtonesGouacheMixing Colors for WatercolorRendering Fabrics in WatercolorReducing a PrintFinished versus Partial RenderingFabric Practice TemplatesColor TestingColor NuancesStripesChecks, Gingham, and PlaidsGeometric PatternsviiiEXTENDED CONTENTS204208210211212213214215Guest 66168170172174Guest ArtistsChristina KwonJodie LauFall FabricsAnimal PrintsFashion Designer Color ChallengesAndré CourrègesEmilio Pucci/Carolina HerreraRudi GernreichGeoffrey Beene/James GalanosArnold 2Raya ClementsEduarda Salmi Pereira216218CHAPTER 8High-End Rendering Techniques 223Sketching RufflesSketching CascadesSketching CowlsSketching Smocking and ShirringGathers, Gores, Cowl Drape, and PintucksChanging ProportionsBridal LooksBridal TrainsDress and Gown FlatsDrape and VolumeLuxe Fabric RenderingBlack Fabric RenderingBeading, Satin, Chiffon, Crystal Pleating,and TulleFeathers, Fringe, and t ArtistsElizabeth KennedyYuen Chi LoCarmen Chen WuCHAPTER 9Drawing Knits254256260265CHAPTER 10Design Focus and Layout295Design DirectionAttitude in a PoseDesign EmphasisStylization for DesignersDesign ObjectivesDesign Journal PagesDesign Journal Thumbnail SketchesWWD Designer Fitting PhotosMaximizing Design ImpactComposition DirectionGrouping FiguresLayout or Line Up296298300302304308310311312314316320Guest ArtistsJulian GuthrieCHAPTER 11Drawing MenMenswear Figure BasicsProportions for Menswear FiguresRunway Poses for MenElongation for MenswearDrawing Men’s LegsDrawing Men’s Arms and HandsDrawing Men’s HeadsDrawing Men’s HairClothing the Male FigureMenswear PantsMenswear TopsSketching a SuitMenswear FlatsDesign Journal RoughsMarker Rendering for MenswearFashion Runway and Showroom 358360362Guest ArtistsChildTween BoyTween to TeenTeen BoyDrawing Children’s HeadsDrawing Children’s Arms and HandsDrawing Children’s Legs and FeetDesign Roughs for ChildrenswearRendering ChildrenswearFlats for Children384385386387388390392394396398Guest ArtistsEri MikamiSerena ChangCallista WolffAnika Sushil GuptaEarly Childrenswear Illustrations:1920 to 1930CHAPTER 13Accessories400402404406408411Jewelry CroquisJewelry TemplatesSunglassesHats and GlovesDrawing Men’s HatsDrawing Women’s HatsBeltsHardware for Belts and BagsHandbags and PursesShoesFootwear Designer RoughsSporty Shoes412414416418420421422423424425426428Guest ArtistsLaToya LefloreJason BuchanonJulian ha FlowersNeha BhatiaMatthew Conmy366368370Malinda FranklinFelice DaCostaEarly Accessories Illustrations: 1950sJulian GuthrieEarly Menswear Illustrations: 1900 to 1930372374FASHION ARCHIVE443Credits475477Anthony ManfredoniaJodie LauChristina KwonJoseph Singh284286288290Jose "Juni" Salgado292Children’s Age GroupsChildrenswear ProportionsInfantToddlerYounger ChildKnit EssentialsKnitwear FlatsBasic Knit StitchesRepeat PatternsCables and CombinationsComplex KnitsWWD Photo ReferenceGuest ArtistsCHAPTER 12Drawing Children377Index378380381382383EXTENDED CONTENTSix

Blouses, Skirts, and DressesSketching PantsDrawing PantsShorts and PantsSketching a BlazerDrawing JacketsDrawing CoatsJackets and Coats120122124126128130132134Guest ArtistsAram SungCarmen Chen WuCHAPTER 6Drawing Flats and SpecsFlat Figure TemplatesFigure Formulas for FlatsTops: Templates for Shirts, Blouses,and DressesBottoms: Templates for Shorts,Pants, and SkirtsStructure for FlatsSwimwear and Lingerie FlatsComprehensive FlatsWomen’s Outerwear FlatsPresentation or Portfolio FlatsCroquis Mixed with FlatsFlats and Figures MixedSpecsMeasuring and Detailing for SpecsAnalyzing a Garment for Flats or SpecsFlats and SpecsSpec SheetsCHAPTER 7Basic Rendering TechniquesRendering FleshtonesGouacheMixing Colors for WatercolorRendering Fabrics in WatercolorReducing a PrintFinished versus Partial RenderingFabric Practice TemplatesColor TestingColor NuancesStripesChecks, Gingham, and PlaidsGeometric PatternsviiiEXTENDED CONTENTS204208210211212213214215Guest 66168170172174Guest ArtistsChristina KwonJodie LauFall FabricsAnimal PrintsFashion Designer Color ChallengesAndré CourrègesEmilio Pucci/Carolina HerreraRudi GernreichGeoffrey Beene/James GalanosArnold 2Raya ClementsEduarda Salmi Pereira216218CHAPTER 8High-End Rendering Techniques 223Sketching RufflesSketching CascadesSketching CowlsSketching Smocking and ShirringGathers, Gores, Cowl Drape, and PintucksChanging ProportionsBridal LooksBridal TrainsDress and Gown FlatsDrape and VolumeLuxe Fabric RenderingBlack Fabric RenderingBeading, Satin, Chiffon, Crystal Pleating,and TulleFeathers, Fringe, and t ArtistsElizabeth KennedyYuen Chi LoCarmen Chen WuCHAPTER 9Drawing Knits254256260265CHAPTER 10Design Focus and Layout295Design DirectionAttitude in a PoseDesign EmphasisStylization for DesignersDesign ObjectivesDesign Journal PagesDesign Journal Thumbnail SketchesWWD Designer Fitting PhotosMaximizing Design ImpactComposition DirectionGrouping FiguresLayout or Line Up296298300302304308310311312314316320Guest ArtistsJulian GuthrieCHAPTER 11Drawing MenMenswear Figure BasicsProportions for Menswear FiguresRunway Poses for MenElongation for MenswearDrawing Men’s LegsDrawing Men’s Arms and HandsDrawing Men’s HeadsDrawing Men’s HairClothing the Male FigureMenswear PantsMenswear TopsSketching a SuitMenswear FlatsDesign Journal RoughsMarker Rendering for MenswearFashion Runway and Showroom 358360362Guest ArtistsChildTween BoyTween to TeenTeen BoyDrawing Children’s HeadsDrawing Children’s Arms and HandsDrawing Children’s Legs and FeetDesign Roughs for ChildrenswearRendering ChildrenswearFlats for Children384385386387388390392394396398Guest ArtistsEri MikamiSerena ChangCallista WolffAnika Sushil GuptaEarly Childrenswear Illustrations:1920 to 1930CHAPTER 13Accessories400402404406408411Jewelry CroquisJewelry TemplatesSunglassesHats and GlovesDrawing Men’s HatsDrawing Women’s HatsBeltsHardware for Belts and BagsHandbags and PursesShoesFootwear Designer RoughsSporty Shoes412414416418420421422423424425426428Guest ArtistsLaToya LefloreJason BuchanonJulian ha FlowersNeha BhatiaMatthew Conmy366368370Malinda FranklinFelice DaCostaEarly Accessories Illustrations: 1950sJulian GuthrieEarly Menswear Illustrations: 1900 to 1930372374FASHION ARCHIVE443Credits475477Anthony ManfredoniaJodie LauChristina KwonJoseph Singh284286288290Jose "Juni" Salgado292Children’s Age GroupsChildrenswear ProportionsInfantToddlerYounger ChildKnit EssentialsKnitwear FlatsBasic Knit StitchesRepeat PatternsCables and CombinationsComplex KnitsWWD Photo ReferenceGuest ArtistsCHAPTER 12Drawing Children377Index378380381382383EXTENDED CONTENTSix

PrefaceThe sixth edition of Fashion Sketchbook is in full color. It is completely revised, with updated drawing instructions and new images in every chapter. Many of the photos are Women’s Wear Daily fashion runway and showroom photos that inform and maximize lesson goals. The photos will inspireas well as fuel your fashion illustrations, with a stronger connection to the fashion design studio orcl

fashion sETCoK hBo K sixth edition Heads Figure Work Mixed Media Rendering Design Detail Flesh Tones Fabric fashion s K ETC h B o o K aBingl sixth edition f ashion Sketchbook, 6th Edition demystifies the fashion drawing process with simple, step-by-step directions. now in full color and completely revised, with updated